Cycle Log

The Journey So Far:

The Last days in Thailand and Crossing Over

24 and 25/4/2011

The views on the way

The last stopover before heading to the coastal border at Hat Lek was Khlong Yai.  I managed to dodge most of the rain on my way here jumping between food stops and shelters.  The evening cleared for me so I could make the most of a night market dinner.  Man I bought way too much food and was super full after some of you may know me for eating till I want to spew… almost, I had to have many breaks in-between.

Thai roads and roadworks.
Love the Traffic Management...

So the morning came for the border crossing.  The sun was shining and it was nice and hot again.  Exchanged some money for American dollars and had the bank manager welcome me in and do it all for me made life easy.  His conversion rate was marginally better than what I expected so made a couple of extra dollars, hahaha!  Had some yarns with him about where I was going and had come from, so friendly!

The border crossing:  

The final words from The King (or maybe it's
The Prince) in Thailand. Can you spot my bike?

It was similar to what I had read about and I am very happy I did read about it.  There are scams everywhere.  I pulled up and soon after a guy come up to me and says he’ll sort my visa and if I want to buy smokes.  Politely talked to him for a bit while I sorted myself then said I will sort it all myself and I don’t smoke.  Didn’t mean much to him he just offered cheaper prices.  Whatever., I just moved on.  Departure easy.  Walked into no-mans land it was a funny feeling, you are completely countryless and weirdly felt quite peaceful – you were just yourself and that’s it (wow that was deep).  

No-mans land

Cambodian Immigration

Anyway so the Cambodia side:

“Sir you need quarantine. Sir you come up here, you need doctor certificate.”

“No I don’t.”

“Sir you need one for visa.”

“No I don’t.”

That was that and he left me alone.

“Where you going Sir.  I get visa for you.”

“I’ll sort it myself thanks.”

“Sir you need visa I will get for you.”

“I’ll sort it.”

After some other traveller directing me where to get the visa I filled out the details then came the cost.

“1000 baht”

“It’s 500 isn’t it?”

“1000 baht Sir”

“No 500 baht, I’m sure.”

Back and forth for a while then I wait for a bit then they ask me to come into their office.  A bit intimidating but in I go.  So I ended up negotiating in US dollars and went down to about 750 baht (25 USD).  Whatever, I think I should have pushed for less but it wasn’t much money and got a visa for 1 month which I thought I only got it for 2 weeks so happy in the end.  German fella who had done it a few time before only paid 20 USD, oh well didn’t know how much I could push before getting into arguments and some trouble…  know better for next time.

Visa, tick.  Immigration, tick.

Into Cambodia. Roads seem to have deteriorated.

On the bike again and down the worse for wear roads in Cambodia.  No one around so just cruised on the left side for a bit then all these motorbikes were heading for me.  Hmmm, Cambodia must be right hand drive.  It’s a weird feeling, have struggled a bit at intersections but will get used to it.  You have to look the un-natural way and I find myself riding on the wrong side every now and then…whoops.

Koh Krong bridge quite impressive

Signs of some rain coming

Koh Krong 25 & 26/4/2011:


Today I actually experienced proper monsoon rain. Sheets and sheets of it.  Incredible!  Luckily I had just sat down for a wee snack (no raincoat – not going to do that again) and was under the makeshift shelter of the stall I was at – tarps and umbrellas.  Saw some lightning hit the river (maybe about 5km down river from us) for the time in my life – cool!! And man the thunder was loud, cracking and then BANG!  Generally dry I waited an hour or so for it ease before boosting back to my room.

And rain it did!

I would like to add some videos but having problems with it currently.  Hopefully will get it sorted some time.  It's working now!!!

I was hoping to stay the night in Koh Krong and take a boat to Sihanoukville but apparently it no longer runs as it couldn't compete with the buses on the 'new' highway, stink. would have been nice and relaxing, so it will be back on the bike for what I have been told over some bloody big hills.  Man I don’t want to be caught in the middle of nowhere in those rains… we’ll see.

I have found out what a guesthouse actually is. A large house that has a row of rooms to stay in that is reasonably noisey… Now I have a power cut in my room, everyone else seems to be ok!!!!! Maybe it’s me overpowering my aircon?!

My new hotel room. Pimpin'.

26/4/2011

Shifted into a new hotel today $1 US more and much nicer; 3^rd floor with a bit of a view and lots more peaceful.  Man I’m really roughing it over here!  I think the next two or three days are going to be pretty long and tough and no idea if there will be much if any to stay on the way.  Fingers crossed. And there seems to be a lack of bread and cereal supplies in Cambodia, nooooo!! 

The clean streets of Koh Krong

A whole new world here in Cambodia.  Everything is a bit more run down than Thailand, well actually quite a bit more.  Not many flash cars, only got a few street lights in Koh Krong (where I currently am) and streets are pretty messy.  I think the average age of the population so far is 18.  You read about the effect the wars had on Cambodia and it is interesting actually seeing it and observing how it all operates here.  So far I feel it is a country trying to re-establish itself but is strongly influenced by others - currency is USD, Cambodian reil or Thai Baht.

What's this in my meal?

Oh only a small cockroach.

Trat

Arrived 23/4/2011

Things were a bit more positive today.  The sun was out, it was more Budda highway and I rode past the elusive Mountain View Resort.  No idea how you find that place if you tried to follow the signs!

So after spending time last night cleaning the chain, cassette and chain rings to get them looking all shiny again I ended up riding in torrential rain today for about an hour. Murphy’s law.  Had some super nice hotel staff that let me put my bike inside even though it was dripping with water and probably a bit of oil in there too.

Khung Wiman (aiming for Chanthaburi):

22/4/2011

Not such an enjoyable day. 7 hours, 140km and a whole lot of back tracking. 

The 'Budda' Highway

Sick of the highway it was time to head to the coast, easy enough.  Great riding and knew I’d be riding a bit further than the highway but the quieter roads were bliss!  Sunshine and lollipops, I discovered the ‘Budda’ rural highway which has its own dedicated red cycle lane then it happened… it stopped.  A river mouth and no bridge.  My GPS mapping on my phone showed a gap here but only about 2km so I assumed some random road would get me back on the roads shown on the other side.  I asked around about getting a boat across and roads on the other side.

“Yes you take boat to Prasae.  20 baht ($1). Where you go?”

“Chanthaburi”

“Ah, no road over there. You go back and around on highway.”

You are sh#tting me.  I was sure it would continue on the other side.  So back on the bike and loop around.  2 ½ hours later and about 45km later I had pretty much looped around, came to a turn off and there was the Budda highway again.  Chanthaburi turn left, Prasae straight ahead. What! I did not physically confirm that I could have ridden from the river mouth as time was running out to find somewhere to stay and it would have made too angry.  Google Earth has since confirmed I could –massive blowout. 

Oh well there will be somewhere nice to stay along the coast here, I had seen  a couple of resort signs.  3pm nothing, 4pm nothing, stop to refill water from spare bottle (always take spare!), 4:30pm call from Mum and Dad just for a chat and say happy Easter – I wasn’t in a happy place (sorry Mum and Dad), 5pm nothing, stop for a food break (feeling myself getting a little shaky from fatigue), 5:30 finally a big sign in Thai and that’s hopefully somewhere to stay, yay!

From all the signs I saw I didn’t find any of them.  Mountain View Resort signs sporadically popped up along the roadside but it was never to be.  Glad that day is over.

Rayong

Arrived: 21/4/2011

Cycling along endless fricken highways and progress away from Bangkok seems painfully slow.  3 days of riding and I saw a sign that said Bangkok 100km or so.  I had ridden about double that!

Tried to ‘quickly’ bike past the black line in the sky but didn’t make it.  Soaked to the bone in 10 seconds flat.  2km down the road dry again, nice.

Funniest dessert – Fruit salad over coleslaw with coleslaw dressing in a side dish:

Oh cool they serve it with yoghurt.  Didn’t quite taste right but I couldn’t put my finger on it.  Then it struck me, that’s coleslaw under my fruit salad…and that’s… coleslaw dressing?! Same, same but different yea?

The white room

Hello!

Bang Sean and Ban Prap

Bang Sean: 19/4/2011

blowout with hotel room.  Nice but expensive. I was wasted and just wanted a bed.  Rode down to dinner and found another place that looked a whole lot cheaper.  Leaving the next day I biked in what felt like a loop and found about 3 other places grrr.

Although I have been cycling along 3 lane split highways I still manage to get lost at some of the crazy intersections.  I’m getting pretty good at the good old u turn and ride on the wrong side of the road to get back to where I want.  I’m getting use to people steering at me and wondering what they hell I’m doing.

Ban Prap: 20/4/2011

Keen to put some k’s behind me today and get to Pattaya.

Khao Khiew Open Zoo. Sounds cool maybe I’ll take a wee detour there.

“Hey! Where’re you cycling to?”

What the hell that guy in the car just yelled some English at me.

“Kheo Kiao Open Zoo then down to Pattaya.”

And that is how I meet Neil Willmann an American guy that had a farm stay and introduced me to warmshowers.org – sounds a bit dodgy but it’s a website for cycle tourist to find cheap homestay accommodation.  Unfortunately there aren’t many in South East Asia, but he is one!

So I checked out the open zoo just cruising around on the bike feeding random animals – hippos were hilarious. Camera crapped itself.  Pictures went white the light filter or something exploded and that was that Unfortunately my camera crapped itself so photos are a bit average and not many. 

The Farm Stay

Low on time I decided to head back to Neil’s farm stay which was really cool.  The farm is based around sustainability and using manual labour for much of the work.  Irrigation was all controlled by gravity from a main pond which is planned to be made bigger so fish can breed in it and add nitrogen to the water.  Plants were everywhere and most things attempted to be grown.  The best part was there was a bunch of travellers just hanging out and I was able to talk to people again!  Dinner and breakfast all cooked up and for a very small price and bit of work the in the morning – helped plant some chives in the morning.

My bed - pretty hot that night!

Trying to Leave Bangkok

18/4/2011

Task 1 – post some un-necessaries back to NZ.  Understand how Thailand Post works.  Walk in watch people look stupid proceed to point at things, get box, address it, point a few more times, look dumb, get electronic plastic wrap thing around box, hand over 1600 baht *(~$75).  Hoping it will arrive home.  Think I might be doing another lot later on.  Man I will definitely be harsher packing next trip!

Task 2 – new handlebar bag.  Unfortunately I broke my handlebar bag mount and it just wasn’t quite cutting the mustard constantly slipping forward so it was out with the old and in the with the new and out with the cash.  Stink. I don’t wish to share the cost but it’s Ortleib (all the had to offer) and definitely blown my budget.

Task 3 – say hi at the NZ embassy and check to see if border crossing to Cambodia open.  Reasonably assured it is.  I don’t want to be back-tracking.

Task 4 – leave.  It was now 1pm and a bit behind time.

Well surprising enough it was considerably easier to get out of Bangkok compared to arriving.  I did now have some very vague local knowledge after my 3 days there though.  First road I went down took me to a dead end and I ended up cycling through the Thailand Tobbaco Company… not sure if I was allowed to do that.  Very tobbacoy smell.  I’ll take the road around the harbour (Bight of Bangkok) should be easy to follow and not too busy.  Well it was bloody narrow and took me through or right next to the Port of Bangkok and there was a constant stream of vehicles mostly massive truck and trailers.  Awesome.  Was keen to get video footage while riding but I had already changed my undies and didn’t want to again.  There was a stage I was riding between supports of a trailer… not ideal.  Screw this turned off early and main highway the rest.  There is sooooo much traffic in Bangkok even over their new year!

Crocodile Farm:

This was pretty cool.  Some super friendly staff at the gate that put my bike in its own wee park and kept an eye it for me.  Lots of Crocs and a random array of other animals to see – hippos, elephants, snakes, lizards, tigers, leopards, monkeys…  was sad to see there were three tigers in a circular cage not looking so happy – I wouldn’t be.

Elephants – they were putting on a show.  Dancing to music, ten pin bowling and walking a tightrope, incredible!

A Ten Pin Bowling elephant

Tightrope walking

Crocodiles – again a choice as show.  Instructors hitting them with sticks and what seemed to be agitating them, then they would put their hand in the crocs mouth, then the arm, then yes why wouldn’t you….

F me.  They looked at me and I think they said for me to come and try.  I was happy sitting and watching with two arms and a head.

Mosquito net used for the first time that night, it makes you feel invincible when inside.  Stayed in Bang Poo. Hmm wonder what the English translation is.

My sanctuary - yes I do have pants on!

Bangkok

Bangkok!!!!

Just the average wildlife.  Not sure how
 defensive they get yet

15 – 18 April 2011

Not a particularly busy road.  Pink cabs...?

After 20km odd of back roads it was onto main highway again – three lane split highway with no way for me get over to the correct side to head to Bangkok.  So in good Thai fashion I just started riding on the shoulder on the wrong side.  Lasted for about 300m then turned back with the traffic till I found a place to do a u-turn, a bit safer I think.  Surprisingly enough motorbikes (and the occasional car) drive up the wrong side quite a bit, it’s just how they roll.  So not only do I have to pay attention to what is coming behind me but more importantly what is heading for me!

Finally hit the city and there the mayhem condensed.  Lanes everywhere, turn where and when you want, dodge traffic if you want to go a bit faster or get through the back logs.  I just took the approach of following what motorbikes did was ok for me – footpaths, don’t worry too much about red lights and just go with it.

The power supply - must be very reliable...

More water thrown at me.  That’s 3 days of it, I’ll be happy when it’s over.

Another lesson learned: if get the option always get an air con room.  Thought I’d try the cheaper option just with a fan but when it ends up cooler outside than in your room and outside it’s 30 degrees and you’re trying to sleep it is impossible!

The best money I spent in Bangkok was on a motorbike ride across town to the Grand Palace.  Better than any fun park ride – this was real traffic dodging!  Interesting enough on a push bike but at speed on a motorbike…WOW!  I now wish I got my camera recording it.  Something you will all have to experience for yourselves.

The Grand Palace:

After reading all about the scammers out the front there were none – maybe the time of year?  As usual scorching hot day so shorts and tee.  Walk in and in a high soft voice from a man “No sir, no short pants allowed.”  What? Deposit and given a pair of baggy trousers, baggy trousers, baggy trousers.

The Grand Palace and its surrounding buildings are incredible.  The attention to detail is just overwhelming, incredible paintings and millions of coloured glass pieces all specifically placed.  I don’t really do it any justice but you have to see it to believe it.  Most impressive: The Galleries (endless walls covered in paintings of the stories of love, loss and the many battles waged) and The Royal Monastery of the Emerald Budda (an incredible shrine – gold painted, dangly things, more stuff and other bits everywhere with an emerald budda only allowed to view and not take any photos inside).

Some pics of The Grand Palace:

The half man half lion or bird statues
- believing in reincarnation

The guards at the enntrance 

A wee touch up of painting

There is lots to do!

An attempt to photo the Emerald Budda
from outside

The actual 'Grand Palace'

Bangkok is a big city and there is loads of cheap shopping to do but I think it’s better suited to a tourist that is only going for a couple of weeks.  There seems to be lots of sifty old farangs here.  The nicer places to eat out here are the local Asian restaurants and loads cheaper.


Amongst all the general chaos are some good old parks - only open certain hours of the day but you feel you are in a different world when you're in them. Relaxed, free and able to unwind.