Ninh Binh

13 – 15 July 2011

Well unfortunately it just rained here since I arrived.  I’m sure Ninh Binh is very picturesque town when it’s not raining and I would have liked to explore the place more with some good weather.  There was one temple (Mai Goti) on top of a hill that looked really epic but just didn’t get the chance to get up to it and plans to go to Cuc Phuong National Park were postponed a day but it just rained some more so had to settle for a local tour, but that’s life.  Shame not to get to Cuc Phuong was looking forward to seeing all the monkey life up there and it’s meant to be the most impressive national park in Vietnam.

So the tour took us to Tam Coc Caves, several temples and pagoda’s around the area and The Ancient City (more temples).  The Tam Coc Caves were pretty cool you floated along on a boat through a series of caves.

The Boats.  I imagine pretty chaotic in peak tourist season

Our multi-tasking driver! They row forwards which just looks awkward and slow but they make it look easy.  So much so they use their feet to paddle! Very skilful.

We were warned about boats trying to sell stuff to us but told not to buy as you can get it cheaper in village.  Thinking this was the boats selling refreshments it didn’t seem that bad.  Then the lady on our boat opened up her box of goodies and started pushing for us to “help me buy” her stuff.  A bit awkward when you keep saying no, not “helping” her then have to sit with her the rest of way.

Learnt a lot about temples and pagodas, their differences and what they are used for.  We were lucky enough to have really good guide who had a lot of knowledge to share. 

So a quick/long rundown, if you are interested and so I don’t forget otherwise skip the next fair bit. Temples are places where the Vietnamese remember and prey to those lost in their family and are usually associated with the battles between Vietnam and China.  For this reason not many Chinese tourist visit the temples as it reminds them of their defeat.  Pagodas however, are about Buddism and preying to the gods.  All the Chinese tourist come and see these, so if you want some peace and quiet from the big tour groups check out the temples.

The entrance. Hmm horses guarding in this case.

Entrances to both of them have meaning as well.  You’ll find two animals (lions or tigers) either side and in front of the entrance to decide if you are a good man or woman.  The entrance itself has three doorways.  Right side you go in as a human, left side you come out as a dragon and the centre we were told for VIP’s – very impolite people – classic!.  I actually think it is for important people and ceremonies etc.  On top of the entrance there usually is a one or two dragons that centre around and look up a sun – I think this was something about the gods (I tuned in and out at stages trying to take it all in and battle the heat). 

Dragon looking to the sun

All temples have two lakes either side once through the entrance, meaning not sure just looks nice.

Turtles and Phoenix’s are scattered throughout both as rubbed for good luck.  Phoenix is something about rising from the ashes and the turtle is always carrying it something about foundation.  Tune out stage.

Inside the temples and pagodas there are either three of five rooms/divisions as these are seen as lucky numbers relating somehow to yin and yen.   We were told in the temples (from the right to left) the rooms are for the daughter(s), then grandparents, centre for the place of worship, then the parents and on the left for son(s).

Then there were the different dragons from the different dynasties.  We learnt about the The Ly, Mac (I think) and Wing Dynasty dragons.

Ly – recognised by its 12 sinuous curves along its body

Mac – buffalo nose, straight back hair and knife like things on its body

Wing – human nose, big eyes, and two legs arching either side showing its strength

To be honest you have to look pretty hard to notice some of these things!

So there you go, that’s what I remember.  I’ve probably added some Chinese whispers but I will claim I’m an expert of Temples and Pagoda’s now.  No further questions thank-you.

The one cool thing from all the rain was seeing the flooded streets.  Drains over here don’t cope very well.

Every street was flooded at least ankle deep

Right time for me to start making some progress south and on the bike for more than two days in a row.  Getting lazy!